Hellion

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Hellion last won the day on June 15 2013

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About Hellion

  • Rank
    Junior
  • Birthday March 7

Profile Information

  • Locatie
    Hunedoara
  • Model
    RX8
  1. Stiu .. ziceam ca fapt divers .. Am stat mult si m`am gandit .. si mai bine un RX8 din 2009 cu 20.000 km la bord si garantie de 18 luni in stare foarte buna si luat de la Mazda decat unul cu 100.000 + km din 2010 in aceiasi bani si fara nici o garantie luat de la particular. Acuma no .. am auzit ca fiabilitarea motorului pus pe R3 cica ar fi mai buna decat precedentul ( dar am auzit si multe argumente contra ). Plus ca sunt multi care au masina din 2004 ( nu pe la noi din cate stiu ) cu peste 100.000 si fara sa fi segmentat sau schimbat motorul. Sincer nu stiu ce sa fac daca e sa stau sa aleg intre 2 RX8`uri .. 2010 cu km multi de la particular .. 2009 cu km putini de la reprezentanta .. Amandoua in aceiasi bani .. Plus ca modelul 2010+ nu ma prea incanta ..
  2. Am gasit si facelift dar nu de la Mazda. Si cu mult mai multi km ( peste 100.000 ) si tot cam in aceiasi bani ( 17.000 ) .. Macar asta arata tapiteria ca si noua ( pe bune ) si iti da si garantie la ea .. Oricum inca sunt in tratative .. si mai ma gandesc ..
  3. Am gasit alta. Cu 20.000 de km .. in reprezentanta mazda in Germania. Masina e din 2009 .. un singur prorietar .. garantie 18 luni la ea .. estetic e tot modelul din 2004 ..
  4. Joi am primit si eu raspuns de la RAR sa ma prezint in Calea Grivitei ( era si cazul ) .. Multumesc mult lui Cristi pt. tot ajutorul acordat si pt. rabdarea de a`mi explica ce trebuie sa fac ( fara el probabil ca tot prost as fi ramas ) .. Pacat ca rezolvarea asta vine cand deja am facut praf motorul la masina .. dar nici o problema .. stiu ce am de facut cu cealalta .. Multa bafta tuturor in continuare si sper sa ajungeti sa primiti si voi acelasi raspuns final ca mine ..
  5. Joi am primit raspuns de la RAR sa ma prezint in calea Grivitei saptamana viitoare .. si m`am luat cu alte cele si nu am mai zis nimic. Am declarat ca e motorul mort pt. ca se pare ca e .. doar nu o fi sa mint omu` si sa zic ca e ok .. cine o vrea pt. acte sau piese o ia asa cum e .. Oricum nu cred ca e nimeni interesat de ea la pretul ala ( si mai jos de atat nu o dau .. sa imi permit macat inmatricularea la cea noua ) ..
  6. So .. veneam eu din Olanda linistit ( eram in Germania pe autostrada ) .. 220 la ora .. cam 7.800 rpm mergeam cam de vreo 10 km sau mai mult asa .. oricum tot drumul am mers in rotatii ridicate. Dintr`o data mi`a cazut in 6.000 de ture si a inceput un pacanit foarte deranjant si puternic. Sub nici o forma nu mai vroia sa urce peste 6.500 de ture si in a sasea la 6.000 de ture mergea cam cu 140 km/h. Buuuun. Am oprit intr`o parcare, nu am oprit motorul dar am deschis capota ( statea la relanti cu usoare vibratii ) .. nu am putut sa imi dau seama de nimic .. sub 6000 de ture nu era nici un sunet ciudat ( adica nu mai tacanea .. dar totusi se auzea aiurea motorul ). Am plecat de acolo .. a trebuit sa o accelerez cam tare cand am plecat ca sa o ia de pe loc ( lipsa de putere ). Din nou la 6.000 a inceput tacaneala. Dupa ce am ajuns la Stuttgart ( la niste prieteni acasa ) am oprit motorul dupa ce l`am lasat cam 15 minute la relanti. L`am lasat cam 40 de minute apoi si am incercat sa o pornesc. Nici o nadejde. La automat nu mai vroia sa porneasca. Cum eram in panta am impins`o si am pornit`o in a 2`a .. a pornit, a accelerat dar nu a mai stat la relanti .. cand am oprit s`a oprit si motorul. I`am dat cheie imediat, a pornit doar cand l`am accelerat sa ii dau un impuls si m`a dus pana in prima intersectie .. apoi iar a murit. L`am tot dus asa turat pana am ajuns sa o parchez si gata. Nu stiu de la ce poate fi. Fum nu a scos. Check Engine ( CEL ) nu s`a aprins. De pornit nu mai vrea sa porneasca. Chiar nu stiu ce poate fi. Va rog daca aveti vreo idee sa imi spuneti. Daca ar fi puscat APEX Seal`ul in mers .. nu cred ca as mai fi putut face 40 de km cu ea ..
  7. Mai sa sti ca ai dreptate !!
  8. Your response has been recorded. Trebuia sa puneti si voi mai multe intrebari. Imi place sa stau sa raspund la chestionare.
  9. Nu tin minte cat a fost .. e in jur de 1.000 / 1.200 de lei vasul de expansiune .. chiar nu tin minte bine preturile. Cand ajung acasa ma uit pe factura si iti trimit un mesaj pe forum cu cat a fost Vasul + Manopera. Ok?
  10. Din moment ce nu functioneaza calumea .. nu sti daca strebuie sa te panichezi sau nu. Parerea mea e ca nu. Dar daca ar fi dupa mine eu l`as schimba ( ceea ce am si facul cu a mea ). Daca ar functiona normal si ai avea nivelul la apa normal si toate ar fi OK si ti s`ar aprinde dintr`o data martorul acela ar trebui sa te panichezi. Motorul de RX8 oricum functioneaza la niste temperaturi extrem de inalte .. o racire slaba a motorului il poate face praf ( parerea mea ). Din cate stiu eu acel martor se aprinde cand sunt probleme cu racirea in general nu doar cand nivelul lichidului de racire e mic. E posibil sa nu stiu eu bine. Oricum pe martorul de temperatura nu ne prea putem baza. Si ca sa dau si aici un Quote de pe rx8club.com: " Cooling, Cooling, Cooling: In case it hasn't been clear enough yet, you CAN NOT let your RX-8 overheat. Overheating a piston engine doesn't automatically mean the engine is damaged. Usually because the needle starts moving before it gets to critical temps. And even then, the temps you can let it get to are usually greater, because of the more even heat distribution in a piston engine. None of this applies to rotaries. If the temp needle in your RX-8 starts to move, it's already at critical temps!. And this is just the water temp. The uneven heat distribution means that there are parts of your engine that are A LOT hotter than this. Even a SINGLE overheating event can damage your engine. Yes, 1 time overheating CAN destroy your engine. It doesn't mean that it will. The danger from overheating is that the temperature differences in the engine block start to warp the gaps between the irons and housings. This creates a sealing problem and allows coolant and oil into the engine. Often it damages the coolant seals and oil control rings as well, compounding the problem. Once this happens, there is no repair. Even the engine parts that are there are probably not re-usable. You can run the engine still, due to the rotary's remarkable ability to run even if it's technically damaged beyond repair, but the uneven wear patterns and coolant present will accelerate internal damage further and further. You can reach this through having too low of a coolant level, a thermostat failure (often strikes without warning), coolant bottle cap failure, coolant bottle failure, coolant hose failure, or sediment clog in the cooling system (sediment is slow rust that gets stripped from stuff and left in the radiator, hose junctions, etc...) It is in your best interest to get a water temp gauge. Either a physical one hooked up, or an ODB2 one. Many methods to go about this. You can't rely on the OEM water temp gauge here! If you do see the needle start moving, or your added temperature gauge shows you headed toward danger, immediately pull over and let the engine idle. DO NOT shut off the engine! Shutting off the engine will allow the temperature to spike even further since there is no coolant running through the block if the engine is off. While it is idling, pop the hood, check for coolant spray from the overflow, check the coolant level if you can (often hard to see), look for coolant leaks. If you lost alot of coolant, carefully depressurize the coolant bottle and add water/coolant The introduction of the cold (ambient) coolant will be immediately helpful. " In concluzie .. si eu am avut aceiasi problema. Am ales sa imi schimb vasul de expansiune cu totul si sa scap de ea ca sa evit o alta eventuala problema si mai grava.
  11. Daca intrii pe rx8club.com vei gasi acolo un tutorial despre tuning si RX8 pt. incepatori .. din care am sa iti dau un mic Quote : " INTAKE The OEM intake is really VERY good. The only 2 aftermarket intakes that can boast a power improvement are the Mazdaspeed and AEM. Which happen to be the exact same thing, just with different logos. That intake can give you a very slight bump in power. And I mean very slight. Within the 2% error margin of modern dynos. (2% of 180rwhp = 3.6hp). The only other viable intake for power reasons is the Racing Beat intake. There are a few other intakes that are net equal to the OEM intake, but not many. Every single other intake than this handful, from K&N to ebay kits, cold air and ram air, complicated and simple, every single one will cause you to lose power. This is because they do not have the proper R&D into how the air flows into our engine. They just fabricated a tube, made a port for the MAF, and jammed an air filter on the end. The air becomes heavily disrupted, the MAF can't read it right, and the ECU believes what the MAF is incorrectly telling it, causing the ECU to over and/or underfuel the engine all over the rev range. Even removing the OEM screens can cause power loss, since those screens are very well designed to straighten the air flow and smooth it down considerably. They aren't there to 'catch rocks'. Just to straighten the air flow. The filter isn't even bad. There is FAR more breathable surface area on the OEM air filter than nearly every intake kit out there. The OEM filter is NOT a restriction on the air flow. The K&N drop-in panel was dyno'ed by Speedsource to show a consistent 1HP increase vs OEM. However, the K&N's filtering is substandard, and in Daytona races (Grand-Am ST class), they were losing engines to sand ingestion. 1HP is not worth that risk, especially if you are paying for it. Stick with OEM. The only solid reasons to go after market are: - the subjective reason of "I like the sound" - the cooling reason of removing the OEM air box to improve air flow from the radiator - or the improvement in how easy it is to get to any items under the OEM air box. "
  12. Probabil sa se fi ars senzorul. Sau are ceva probleme. Si mie mi sa intamplat aproape la fel. Am fost nevoit sa schimb vasul de expansiune cu totul .. Ideea e ca intradevar poate fi ignorat dar daca chiar e o data sa ai probleme cu racirea motorului si ai sa ignori senzorul crezand ca de fapt e glitch`ul lui obijnuit poti avaria motorul. Asa ca mai bine schimbi vasul de expansiune ( daca necesita schimbare ) si ramai linistita.
  13. Daca ti se aprinde martorul de " Check Engine " atunci trebuie sa mergi cu ea la o verificare. Dar acel martor nu are nimic de a face cu martorul senzorului care spune ca fierbe motorul ( care se poate arde si trebuie schimbat vasul de expansiune cu totul ). Check engine se poate aprinde din sute de cauze .. ideea e ca trebuie sa sti codul de eroare care il inregistreaza in ECU ca sa iti dai seama de ce sa aprins.
  14. Am primit raspuns si eu .. exact la fel cu ale voastre !!
  15. Daca e cat`ul chiar nu iti recomand sa dai 350 de euro aiurea. Putine caturi rezista la temperaturile care le scoate un RX8 .. cel stock e printre cele mai bune optiuni posibile .. documenteazate inainte sa arunci cu 350 de euro !!